Day 5 in Costa Rica - Sneaky Left Handers at Avellanas

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Day 5

We left the hostel at 8:30am to get some local breakfast in the town.

This was best breakfast we’ve had this whole trip because the past couple days we’d had nothing but leftover pasta from the night before.  After some fresh eggs, fruit, veggies, and local coffee, we decide to head to a new destination called Playa Grande.

This beach is north of Playa Negra and Avellanas, so we had a general idea where it would be. When we arrived, we were greeted by a huge stretch of coastline, but there were no waves to be found. On the north side of the beach is long cove, where a few tiny waves were crashing, but it was way too drained out because of the tide.

We figured that with the right tide and swell, this spot would be a premier break to hold some solid right handers. Since we were too far from Playa Negra, we decide to head down the coast in hopes that there would be waves. Along the coast we find that the tide was WAY too low, and it seemed like the waves were closing out a bit. After watching the waves for a bit, we drove up to Avellanas and again…the tide was too low.

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We decide to just wait for the tide to come up and paddled out.  While we were waiting, a local surfer came up to me and asked for a fin key. After I helped him out, we both got to talking about surfing and all his favorite spots in Costa Rica. He seemed chill, down to earth guy, until we paddled out.

He was one of the most aggro surfers I’d seen this whole trip. When he would miss a wave, whether it be because he wasn’t in the right position or if he let a good wave roll right under him, he would yell at the top of his lungs “SON OF A BITCH” in Spanish.

Whenever a good wave would come his direction and he would get it, he would yell “Pura Vida”, which is the saying in Costa Rica that means “pure life.” After a little bit the lineup began to get really crowded, like a crowded day at Malibu, but the waves got super glassy and fun. I was able to sneak some solid lefts amongst the crowd, and had a decent session considering we got skunked all morning.

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We surf until about 5:00pm and head back to Tamarindo to go to our favorite local restaurant, The Wild Panda, where could get a plate of food for $6 and two mojitos for just $4. We sat down, ordered food and talked with our server, who was a young local surfer that looked like a Costa Rican version of Curren Caples.  

He asked us about surfing in California and told us that he is going to fly to San Diego to surf with friends. He told us that he too surfs Langosta a lot with all of his local surf crew, and that he normally doesn’t talk to out of towners about spots, but he liked us enough to bring it up. After a great meal and a solid talk with our server, we head back to our hostel and hang out with the same crew from the night before. We were all exhausted from our day, so instead of going out tonight we just played cards and drank.  Tomorrow is our last day surfing before we head out, so we wanted to get as much rest as we can to be able to surf as much as we can.